Another Night At The Opera

Once again, the Nine Emperor Gods Festival is being celebrated this year, on the first day of Eid-Al-Fitri and a holiday at that, thus giving me an opportunity to document for myself the passing of a cultural icon: The Chinese Opera. Unlike my previous Chinese opera documentary, the troupe I encountered hailed from down south; Singapore. The contrast between the two operas could not be more stark. Whereas the one I saw in Penang Island came from Thailand and performed the Teochew opera, the one that you will see here happens to be a Hokkien opera. The following photographs were taken at a temple in Ampang, Selangor.

The difference did not stop at there. Many of the troupe performers from Thailand were relatively youthful and accompanied by children, as opposed to that hailing from Singapore. Many of the performers are approaching or at their golden years. And there were no children. Later, as I sat down for a chit-chat with one of them, an actress whom I called 'Ah Soh' or elder sister, it was sadly noted that there are no longer any young apprentices who were willing to learn the art of the opera and take up their mantle. Of course, Singapore being a developed economy and all, it is hardly fair to blame younger generations to forsake an art which offers dismal opportunities for a better life. Nevertheless, that night, I bore witness to the passing of an age.

The above are not photographs of opera performers who are unable to pass on their years of skill and experience to the next generation. The are portraitures of pride and dignity. I can only hope my portraiture of them as captured in 35mm film format will render them more grace and justice than my digital camera ever could.

Prelude to the opera.

A prayer is offered for a successful and trouble-free performance. 'Ah Soh' explained to me that the Deity worshiped on the altar, as seen on the upper right swaddled in yellow robe, is one that is exclusive to that of an opera troupe. The deity is flanked by two other figurines, of which one is missing for a reason I shall explain later, representing what I can only best describe as spirits ascribed with child-like qualities. The figurines themselves are flanked by milk bottles and bearing candies in their crudely rendered arms.

"Catching up with the headlines, dear."

Itinerary of the night's performance.

As the music begins, the newspaper headlines takes a backseat as an actress makes preparation to take the stage and enact a performance for the Nine Emperor Gods and the multitude assembled before the stage.

As in the other opera, the performers' make-up kit and costumes were being ferried about to and fro in huge stainless steel locker boxes that served as makeshift make-up tables as well. I noticed that by the mirrors of each were photographs taken from the past. It was obvious the said photographs were mementos treasured by each troupe artiste.

"And so, it begins..."

An appreciative, and perhaps also curious audience.

The unfolding of a drama on stage as an actress renders a tragic role.

As I elaborated earlier, one of the spirit figurines went missing from the prayer altar, and for good reason. It was being prepared by the troupe performers for a special prayer ceremony to be held by Taoist priests within the said temple. Here the troupe performers are seen accompanying the said figurine to another locale within the grounds of the temple...

...whilst I took the opportunity to photograph some of those who came for the Festival, including this beautiful mother and her even more beautiful child.

As the prayer ceremony begins, members of the troupe stand aside. Occasionally, the troupe artistes are seen giving short performances during the ceremony. As of yet, I have yet to determine the underlying basis, or should I say beliefs, for the prayer ceremony and the said performances.

The return to the stage after the prayer ceremony.

The spirit figurine, after the prayer ceremony, is presented to a member of the opera troupe before the very stage, before being safely emplaced at its original position at the troupe's prayer altar. I come now to the opinion that the ceremony was held not only as an act of appeasement of the spirits to ensure that the troupe's performance goes on without a hitch, but also perhaps serving as means of communicating to the Nine Emperor Gods that an opera was being performed for them by mere mortals.

As I left, the performance went underway with drum-beats and clashing of cymbals. The swirling of fantastically rendered period costumes temporarily mesmerized me, and though I could not understand a single word, I was thoroughly entranced. Yes, I shall return to the opera again.